Non-profit summer camps, schools, or local non-profit organizations providing
on-the-water programs for kids have a strong need for safety, and having
right-sized life jackets for
kids is key. Now, the BoatUS Foundation’s Kids Afloat Program is offering
kid/teen-sized, vest-style life jackets for just $5 each. However, supplies are
limited and groups need to apply online at www.BoatUS.org/Kids-Afloat by Friday,
February 28, 2014. The Foundation will then choose those applications that best
match program guidelines and post them to the Foundation’s website and Facebook
page for public voting in the spring. Those with the most votes will have the
opportunity to purchase the deeply discounted life jackets.
Said BoatUS Foundation Outreach Manager Alanna Keating, “We hope that by
involving the public in selecting the sites that receive the jackets, it will
help promote these programs in their own communities.”
The life jackets are Type-II and Type-III vests – the most comfortable
non-inflating type available today that normally retail for about $30 each.
Applicants are allowed to request up to a total of 50 life jackets in infant,
child, youth and teen sizes.
The Kids Afloat program is for groups currently offering on-the-water
programming, such as educational boat trips, fishing trips or canoe and kayak
excursions that include safe and clean boating in their curriculum. However,
groups that don’t currently include safe and clean boating education may also
apply if they commit to add these topics to their program.
For more information, go to www.BoatUS.org/Kids-Afloat.
Thursday, February 20, 2014
Tuesday, February 18, 2014
Have a Hassle-Free Summer by Doing Seven Winter Boat Projects Now
Boaters can get frustrated when a
repair or upgrade takes a long time, but delays are often a simple result of
supply and demand. “Spring and summer can be the most challenging times to get
work done on a boat because everyone else wants their work at the same time,”
said BoatUS Director of Consumer Affairs Charles Fort. But with a little
foresight boaters can get the services they need — sometimes at a better price —
now. And some things on a winter “to do” list don’t require outside help. Here
are some common projects boaters should be looking at doing now, before the
spring rush:
Engine and Prop: Getting your boat’s motor worked on in June is like waiting to buy Billy Joel tickets at the door. Get your mechanic on it now if you have a project in mind. It’s also the time to have the dings taken out of the prop – your prop shop guy will be glad to see you.
Canvas and Sails: Canvas and sail lofts are notoriously cyclical businesses so don’t feel guilty about asking for a discount on winter work. Now is the time to get the new bimini top made, repair the camper canvas, or get the sail stitched up.
Wiring: Every boater needs an extra 12V outlet at the helm, or knows of a corroded wire or two somewhere on the boat that needs fixing. If you want to take on this project yourself, here are some tips on wiring: http://www.BoatUS.com/boattech/articles/choosing-cabels-and-terminals.asp.
Paint and varnish: Generally you need warm weather for these projects – but consider taking home hatch boards, tiller handles or wood trim projects and working on them now in well ventilated basement or heated garage.
Line splicing: Maybe it’s an extra long spring line you’ve always wanted, or dock lines that will actually fit your boat’s cleats. Curl up by fire, sing a sea chantey, and start splicing because you will never want to do this in the summer. Here’s how to do it: www.BoatUS.com/boattech/casey/rope.asp
Chart and Electronics updates: Does your chartplotter use an old chip or are you using the same paper chart you had 10 years ago? Your helm electronics software may also have downloadable updates that make them perform better.
Do a winter tacklebox overhaul: You’re never going to want to do this once the fish start biting. BoatUS Angler pro Steve Chaconas shows how to get your tacklebox into shape at: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UMzNtCkVbic.
Engine and Prop: Getting your boat’s motor worked on in June is like waiting to buy Billy Joel tickets at the door. Get your mechanic on it now if you have a project in mind. It’s also the time to have the dings taken out of the prop – your prop shop guy will be glad to see you.
Canvas and Sails: Canvas and sail lofts are notoriously cyclical businesses so don’t feel guilty about asking for a discount on winter work. Now is the time to get the new bimini top made, repair the camper canvas, or get the sail stitched up.
Wiring: Every boater needs an extra 12V outlet at the helm, or knows of a corroded wire or two somewhere on the boat that needs fixing. If you want to take on this project yourself, here are some tips on wiring: http://www.BoatUS.com/boattech/articles/choosing-cabels-and-terminals.asp.
Paint and varnish: Generally you need warm weather for these projects – but consider taking home hatch boards, tiller handles or wood trim projects and working on them now in well ventilated basement or heated garage.
Line splicing: Maybe it’s an extra long spring line you’ve always wanted, or dock lines that will actually fit your boat’s cleats. Curl up by fire, sing a sea chantey, and start splicing because you will never want to do this in the summer. Here’s how to do it: www.BoatUS.com/boattech/casey/rope.asp
Chart and Electronics updates: Does your chartplotter use an old chip or are you using the same paper chart you had 10 years ago? Your helm electronics software may also have downloadable updates that make them perform better.
Do a winter tacklebox overhaul: You’re never going to want to do this once the fish start biting. BoatUS Angler pro Steve Chaconas shows how to get your tacklebox into shape at: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UMzNtCkVbic.
Thursday, January 30, 2014
Five Ways Your Boat's Insurance Policy Can Fail You
Insurance is one of those things you hope you never have to use, but if you do,
you expect the policy to fix the boat or compensate you fairly. If you haven't
taken a close look at your boat
insurance, you could be surprised to find that you may not be entitled to a
payout with some common types of claims. That's because unlike home or auto,
boat insurance policies offer a wide range of coverage, from very little to a
lot. Boat Owners Association of The United States (BoatUS) recently took a look
at the most common claims over the past five years, and has these tips so you
will know if your boat's insurance policy will live up to your
expectations:
Consequential Damage: If you take hurricane losses out of the list of common claims, the number one claim is for sinking, and half of all sinkings occur at the dock when some small part below the waterline fails. The most common culprits include hoses/hose clamps, stuffing boxes, outdrive bellows, and sea strainers. But these parts most often fail due to "wear, tear, and corrosion" which is a lack of maintenance issue, so policies won't pay you for a new outdrive bellows or sea strainer. But what about the rest of the boat sitting sunk on the lake bottom? Some policies won't cover that, either, as they exclude any "consequential" damage as a result of wear, tear and corrosion. That's why you need "Consequential Damage" coverage that covers losses that often start with a failed part.
Fuel-spill liability: Some policies only pay the cost of cleaning up a fuel spill if it occurs due to a "covered loss." So if your sunken boat wasn't covered because the outdrive bellows failed due to wear, tear or corrosion, the resulting fuel spill won't be either. Sometimes fuel spill coverage is subtracted from other liability payments. A better policy separates out fuel-spill liability and provides coverage up to the maximum amount you can be held liable for under federal law, which today is a whopping $854,000.
Salvage: Hurricanes lead the list of most common claims from 2008 to 2012. In every hurricane boats get scattered and need to be salvaged and safely brought back to their storage area. That takes cranes, travel lifts, flatbed trucks, and other heavy equipment that typically costs hundreds of dollars per foot of boat length. However, as a few boaters found out with Hurricane Sandy, some policies subtract the money paid to salvage the boat from what you get paid to fix the boat, while others only offer salvage coverage up to 25% or 30% of the insured value. A better policy provides separate salvage coverage up to the insured value of the boat - in addition to any payments to fix the boat or replace equipment.
Wreck removal: When fires, sinkings, hurricanes or running up on a shoal destroy your boat, you end up with a "wreck." Most boaters assume their insurance company will cover the cost of cleaning up what's left, but some policies will give you a check for the insured value and only a specified percentage for wreck removal - 3% to 10% is typical - and walk away. That leaves your wallet short and you managing a job you have little knowledge of. Better policies pay up to the liability limit, usually $100,000 or more, to clean up the mess, and don't let you go it alone.
Liability-only policies: Looking through the claims files, injuries make the top ten list for payouts not because of their frequency, but because settlements tend to be expensive. Having no insurance could leave you open to a six-figure settlement. If you have a liability-only policy, the better ones will cover injuries as well as salvage, wreck removal and fuel-spill liability.
Consequential Damage: If you take hurricane losses out of the list of common claims, the number one claim is for sinking, and half of all sinkings occur at the dock when some small part below the waterline fails. The most common culprits include hoses/hose clamps, stuffing boxes, outdrive bellows, and sea strainers. But these parts most often fail due to "wear, tear, and corrosion" which is a lack of maintenance issue, so policies won't pay you for a new outdrive bellows or sea strainer. But what about the rest of the boat sitting sunk on the lake bottom? Some policies won't cover that, either, as they exclude any "consequential" damage as a result of wear, tear and corrosion. That's why you need "Consequential Damage" coverage that covers losses that often start with a failed part.
Fuel-spill liability: Some policies only pay the cost of cleaning up a fuel spill if it occurs due to a "covered loss." So if your sunken boat wasn't covered because the outdrive bellows failed due to wear, tear or corrosion, the resulting fuel spill won't be either. Sometimes fuel spill coverage is subtracted from other liability payments. A better policy separates out fuel-spill liability and provides coverage up to the maximum amount you can be held liable for under federal law, which today is a whopping $854,000.
Salvage: Hurricanes lead the list of most common claims from 2008 to 2012. In every hurricane boats get scattered and need to be salvaged and safely brought back to their storage area. That takes cranes, travel lifts, flatbed trucks, and other heavy equipment that typically costs hundreds of dollars per foot of boat length. However, as a few boaters found out with Hurricane Sandy, some policies subtract the money paid to salvage the boat from what you get paid to fix the boat, while others only offer salvage coverage up to 25% or 30% of the insured value. A better policy provides separate salvage coverage up to the insured value of the boat - in addition to any payments to fix the boat or replace equipment.
Wreck removal: When fires, sinkings, hurricanes or running up on a shoal destroy your boat, you end up with a "wreck." Most boaters assume their insurance company will cover the cost of cleaning up what's left, but some policies will give you a check for the insured value and only a specified percentage for wreck removal - 3% to 10% is typical - and walk away. That leaves your wallet short and you managing a job you have little knowledge of. Better policies pay up to the liability limit, usually $100,000 or more, to clean up the mess, and don't let you go it alone.
Liability-only policies: Looking through the claims files, injuries make the top ten list for payouts not because of their frequency, but because settlements tend to be expensive. Having no insurance could leave you open to a six-figure settlement. If you have a liability-only policy, the better ones will cover injuries as well as salvage, wreck removal and fuel-spill liability.
Monday, January 27, 2014
The "Magenta Line" To Get a Safer Route
It's over 70 years old, a thin magenta-colored line appearing on over 50
different navigational charts covering the Atlantic Coast and Gulf, snaking
along the route of the Intracoastal Waterway. Now, thanks to NOAA's Office of
Coast Survey and a public-private partnership with Active Captain, an
interactive cruising guidebook, NOAA will be updating the "magenta line" on all
of its newly-issued navigational charts to help keep boaters in safe waters.
Boat Owners Association of The United States (BoatUS) submitted
comments on the proposal to NOAA, who had initially proposed removing the
line entirely. However, responding to BoatUS' and other boaters' comments, NOAA
will tap into users of Active Captain to update the route in an on-going effort
that will benefit the boating community.
"Some boaters had assumed the magenta line, which was last updated in 1935, was a precise route through safe waters," said BoatUS Government Affairs Senior Program Coordinator David Kennedy. "However, over time the forces of nature made the line inaccurate as shoals shifted and underwater topography changed, leading some boats into shallows, over dangerous obstructions, or even into land. We thank NOAA for a change of course in keeping the magenta line, listening to boaters and coming up with a creative public-private partnership that recognizes the value of this important guide to navigation."
The magenta line appears in charts covering all Intracoastal waters, and is essentially two distinct routes along the eastern US and Gulf Coasts totaling about 3,000 miles in length. Said Captain Shep Smith, chief of NOAA's Coast Survey's Marine Chart Division, "Today's decision to reinstate the magenta line is not a quick fix. It will take at least three years to fix problems that were 70 years in the making."
Boaters may contribute to the updating effort by joining Active Captain at www.activecaptain.com.
"Some boaters had assumed the magenta line, which was last updated in 1935, was a precise route through safe waters," said BoatUS Government Affairs Senior Program Coordinator David Kennedy. "However, over time the forces of nature made the line inaccurate as shoals shifted and underwater topography changed, leading some boats into shallows, over dangerous obstructions, or even into land. We thank NOAA for a change of course in keeping the magenta line, listening to boaters and coming up with a creative public-private partnership that recognizes the value of this important guide to navigation."
The magenta line appears in charts covering all Intracoastal waters, and is essentially two distinct routes along the eastern US and Gulf Coasts totaling about 3,000 miles in length. Said Captain Shep Smith, chief of NOAA's Coast Survey's Marine Chart Division, "Today's decision to reinstate the magenta line is not a quick fix. It will take at least three years to fix problems that were 70 years in the making."
Boaters may contribute to the updating effort by joining Active Captain at www.activecaptain.com.
Wednesday, January 15, 2014
For Winter Boat Shoppers, It's Still a Buyer's Market
 |
| BoatUS says boat dealers are in the dealing mood this winter boat show season. |
“If you have
been holding back for the past few years, now may be the time to pull
the trigger,” said BoatUS Vice President of Finance, Charm Addington.
“Boat loan rates are still low. While there isn’t the same level of
pre-owned boat inventory as there was at this time last year, there are
still plenty of used boats for sale. For those looking at a new boat
purchase, manufacturers have increased production and will need to move
inventory. We think dealers will be interested in making some deals this
winter boat season, and combined with continued low interest rates, the
winter boat buying season bodes well for buyers.”
To get a boat
loan, Addington said boat lenders usually require two years of federal
tax returns, a paycheck stub and can also require proof of liquid assets
– funds that can be easily converted into cash – for the down payment.
The heady days of “no documentation” loans are largely a thing of the
past.
Here’s some other boat loan tips from BoatUS:
· Unlike
getting a home loan, getting a boat loan doesn’t require a
“preapproval.” However, before you head to the boat show some boat
lenders will offer preapprovals that include rate offers – just ensure
the rate is verified, in writing, and not a teaser rate.
· Depending
on the buyer’s credit score and down payment, some banks may be able to
offer a rate that’s lower than what is initially offered, so be sure to
ask your lender.
· Unlike most lenders, BoatUS Boat Loans posts current loan rates available at http://www.BoatUS.com/boatloans.
“The rate and terms on our website are what we can offer boat buyers
today,” said Addington. “We hope that gives peace of mind knowing the
costs up front.”
Boat Owners Association of The United States (BoatUS)
is the nation’s leading advocate for recreational boaters providing its
over half-million members with government representation, services such
as 24-hour on water boat towing as well as roadside assistance for boat
trailers and tow vehicles, feature-packed boat insurance programs,
money-saving benefits that include marina and West Marine shopping
discounts, and vital information that improves recreational boating. Its
member-funded BoatUS Foundation is a national leader promoting safe, clean and responsible boating.
Monday, January 13, 2014
Top Ten Gear Items for Small Boats
Some of these are required, some are just good sense. Always make sure you have the required safety items on board too!
There's a lot to be said for owning small runabouts, center consoles or bow riders. While they are affordable, easy to store, and can keep everyone in the family happy, they have their limits, though, if you want to venture into coastal waters and big lakes. But these journeys can still be done, with the right ten pieces of equipment. Here's what Boat Owners Association of The United States (BoatUS) recommends should be aboard every boat 20 feet or smaller:
Paddles: If your engine quits, paddles are your propulsion. Keep the outboard or sterndrive down for a rudder, and if you've got a buddy or a spouse aboard, you can make decent headway. A T-handle paddle, the kind used for whitewater canoeing, gives you a great grip. The aluminum shaft is light and strong, as is the high-impact plastic blade. Those materials don't mind sitting out in the weather, either. Make sure they're at least five feet long.
Dry box: Small boats typically lack dry storage. Large, plastic marine dry boxes with lids with O-rings seal out moisture and an extra-deep model can hold the radio, smartphone, flashlight, GPS and more, leaving them dry when you need them.
Anchors and line: Some small-boat manufacturers barely leave space for a lunch hook. But what happens if your engine quits, or you want to anchor overnight in a quiet cove? Stowing two anchors with different line lengths gives you options. Chain between line and anchor also helps. And don't forget a few docklines.
Wearable life jacket: Luckily, life jacket design has evolved and you can find Type III vest-style models that are comfortable to wear all day. Plenty of small-boat owners wear inflatable jackets. They're more buoyant, but more costly and require some care. Your best choice is any life jacket you'll always wear.
Compatible power source for electronics: When your cell phone runs out of juice during a nautical emergency, that's a crisis. Same goes for your flashlight, handheld GPS unit and VHF radio. Get devices that run on the same power source such as AA batteries and stow and extra sealed pack of batteries in the dry box.
Manual bailer: Small, closed-deck boats rely on a single, submersible pump to keep the bilge dry. But if that pump fails, or seawater comes over the gunwales or stern, or there's heavy rain, you've got a problem. Keeping a hand-operated bilge pump aboard is cheap insurance.
Air Horn: The US Coast Guard says small boats must have a "sound-producing device" for distress signaling, capable of a four-second blast that's audible one quarter-mile away. While a plastic whistle or an installed electric horn may meet the letter of the law, a better choice is a handheld, gas-powered air horn, which can be heard at much greater distances.
Spare prop and fix-It tools: A submerged ledge or log can whop your prop and cripple your boat. Having a spare prop and the right wrench is common advice, but changing a mangled wheel while afloat is easier said than done. Dents in aluminum props can be put back into serviceable shape, at least enough to get home. Beefy, vice-grip-style locking pliers and slip-joint pliers are essential for this repair.
Have a charging source: Cell phones don't run on AA batteries. That's why you need a marine rated 12-volt receptacle with a weatherproof cap. Mount it away from spray and rain, and don't forget the charging cords for other electronics.
Paper chart in plastic cover: Even a waterproof chart is hard to manage underway in an open boat. But by putting it in a clear, plastic holder, wind and water won't matter it will always be ready when you need it. You can buy one or make one with clear plastic from the hardware store and duct tape.
Boat Owners Association of The United States (BoatUS) is the nation's leading advocate for recreational boaters
Thursday, January 9, 2014
After that last Cold Snap, think about checking on your boat!
With temperatures now rising after record lows across much of the
nation, Boat Owners Association of The United States (BoatUS)
says now may be a good time to check on your boat in winter storage, and has
these five tips to ensure old man winter is kept at bay:
1. How low can she go? If your boat is stored in the water over the winter, are all of the above-water thru-hulls still well above the waterline? The weight of snow and ice can submerge above-waterline thru-hulls, including the exhaust (inboard boats), so start shoveling if you notice she's sitting lower in the water - plastic shovels and brooms are best. It's also a good time to check on your bubbler system.
2. Call me shifty: For boats stored on trailers, jackstands or cradles, ensure the boat hasn't shifted. Boats on stands/cradles should be level, while those on trailers should be slightly bow up. Boats over 26 feet should have at least three jackstands per side, with plywood under each if the boat is on dirt or gravel - check to see they haven't moved and are chained together to prevent them from being pushed away from the boat. You know the stands are in the right place when there is no hull deformation at the point of contact. If you see any problems with a jackstand, don't try to adjust it yourself; contact marina staff.
3. Blowin' in the wind: It's never a good idea to store a boat outside without a cover, and never tie a tarp to a jackstand as strong winds can get underneath the cover and yank the stand out. Tying off a tarp to trailer framing is acceptable. Also, a poorly fitted cover can sag, allowing huge amounts of water to pool, freeze and add substantial weight, so be sure they remain taut to allow snow and rain to easily slide off.
4. Nothing good comes from water in the bilge: Water or ice in the bilge means a leak. Try to find the source of the water during your walk-through and look for a temporary fix to plug the leak that will buy you time until the spring. Rock salt and nontoxic antifreeze may help you break up and remove any ice in the bilge, then dry it completely. If that's impossible, or the leaks aren't patched, add a few cups of nontoxic antifreeze.
5. A word for the wise on inside boat storage: If the boat is inside a heated storage building, it's always a good idea to winterize the boat in the fall as the BoatUS Boat Insurance Program receives freeze-related damage claims each year after winter storms have knocked out power, allowing inside temperatures to plummet. However, at this time of year, the only thing you can do is to keep in contact with your storage facility to advise you the moment of any power loss and give you the chance to inspect the boat.
1. How low can she go? If your boat is stored in the water over the winter, are all of the above-water thru-hulls still well above the waterline? The weight of snow and ice can submerge above-waterline thru-hulls, including the exhaust (inboard boats), so start shoveling if you notice she's sitting lower in the water - plastic shovels and brooms are best. It's also a good time to check on your bubbler system.
2. Call me shifty: For boats stored on trailers, jackstands or cradles, ensure the boat hasn't shifted. Boats on stands/cradles should be level, while those on trailers should be slightly bow up. Boats over 26 feet should have at least three jackstands per side, with plywood under each if the boat is on dirt or gravel - check to see they haven't moved and are chained together to prevent them from being pushed away from the boat. You know the stands are in the right place when there is no hull deformation at the point of contact. If you see any problems with a jackstand, don't try to adjust it yourself; contact marina staff.
3. Blowin' in the wind: It's never a good idea to store a boat outside without a cover, and never tie a tarp to a jackstand as strong winds can get underneath the cover and yank the stand out. Tying off a tarp to trailer framing is acceptable. Also, a poorly fitted cover can sag, allowing huge amounts of water to pool, freeze and add substantial weight, so be sure they remain taut to allow snow and rain to easily slide off.
4. Nothing good comes from water in the bilge: Water or ice in the bilge means a leak. Try to find the source of the water during your walk-through and look for a temporary fix to plug the leak that will buy you time until the spring. Rock salt and nontoxic antifreeze may help you break up and remove any ice in the bilge, then dry it completely. If that's impossible, or the leaks aren't patched, add a few cups of nontoxic antifreeze.
5. A word for the wise on inside boat storage: If the boat is inside a heated storage building, it's always a good idea to winterize the boat in the fall as the BoatUS Boat Insurance Program receives freeze-related damage claims each year after winter storms have knocked out power, allowing inside temperatures to plummet. However, at this time of year, the only thing you can do is to keep in contact with your storage facility to advise you the moment of any power loss and give you the chance to inspect the boat.
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